I still remember the first time I held a diamond under proper jeweller’s lighting. It was in a tiny workshop in Melbourne’s CBD, the sort of place where time slows down and everything smells faintly of polishing compound. The jeweller slid a stone across the bench toward me and said, almost offhandedly, “Don’t look at the diamond. Look at the cut.”
At the time, I didn’t fully grasp what he meant. Now, after years of researching jewellery, speaking with gemmologists, and writing about the rise of lab grown diamonds, I can tell you this: the cut isn’t just one factor among many. It’s the heart of a diamond’s personality.
And that’s especially true with lab grown diamonds cuts, because the clarity and purity you get from a lab stone can really put the spotlight on how well (or poorly) it’s been shaped.
This isn’t an article about convincing you to choose a certain type of diamond. It’s about understanding the craftsmanship behind the sparkle, the science behind the fire, and the tiny decisions that ultimately shape a lifetime purchase.
So, grab a cuppa, settle in, and let’s talk diamond cuts in a way that actually makes sense.
Table of Contents
What Makes a Diamond’s Cut So Important?
Well, you might not know this unless you’ve spent time around jewellers, but the cut affects nearly everything you visually notice about a diamond. Not the shape, but the cut itself: the exact proportions, angles, symmetry, and polish.
A diamond with perfect colour but a poor cut can look dull.
A diamond with average colour but an excellent cut can look brilliant.
That’s how big the difference is.
What surprised me when I first learned about lab grown diamonds cuts is that these stones typically start out in exceptionally consistent rough form. Because they’re grown in controlled environments instead of mined from unpredictable geology, cutters often have more freedom to shape them precisely without worrying about internal cracks or irregularities.
That doesn’t mean every lab diamond is automatically well cut — not at all. But it does mean good cutters can create extraordinary results. And honestly, that’s one of the reasons lab stones are gaining traction. They’re not just ethical or more affordable. They can actually be prettier when cut well.
If you’re curious about the technical breakdown of popular cut styles, the guide at lab grown diamonds cuts is a tidy resource, but let’s dig a bit deeper here in a more human way.
Shape vs Cut: A Quick Clarification
People mix these two up constantly, and it’s understandable. The industry doesn’t exactly go out of its way to make things simpler.
The shape is what you see from the top:
- Round
- Oval
- Emerald
- Pear
- Cushion
- Princess
- Marquise
The cut is the craftsmanship involved in shaping the stone:
- Depth
- Table size
- Facet alignment
- Pavilion angle
- Symmetry
- Light performance
So you can have:
- A round shape with an excellent cut
or - A round shape with a poor cut
They’re not the same thing, and they make a huge difference in brilliance.
The Round Brilliant: The Show-Off of the Diamond World
I’ll be honest: round brilliant diamonds are the overachievers. They’re designed mathematically to maximise fire and brilliance. There’s a reason they dominate engagement rings in Australia and pretty much everywhere else.
Lab grown round brilliants have become a fan favourite because cutters can get the proportions just right. And when it’s right, it’s really right. The light performance is almost hypnotic.
But there’s a catch (there’s always a catch).
Round brilliants require more rough material to produce, so even lab-grown versions tend to cost a bit more than other shapes.
Still, you’re paying for sparkle, and this shape delivers.
Oval Cuts: The Crowd-Pleaser With a Slimming Effect
If you’ve ever seen someone wear an oval-cut diamond, you’ll know what I mean when I say it visually elongates the finger. It’s flattering, elegant, and has that slightly vintage charm that’s been making a comeback lately.
But here’s the thing: ovals can fall victim to the dreaded “bow-tie effect”. This is when a dark shadow forms across the centre of the stone. Not because there’s anything wrong with it, but because of how light behaves through that elongated shape.
A well-cut oval minimises the bow-tie. A poorly cut one puts it front and centre.
This is another reason lab grown diamonds cuts matter so much — the purity of the stone means any cutting issue is more obvious. If you love ovals, take your time and compare a few side by side.
Emerald Cuts: For the Minimalists and the Detail Lovers
Emerald cuts are a bit like modern architecture. Clean lines. Elegant clarity. Subtle drama.
But they’re not the “sparkle monsters” that rounds or princess cuts are. Instead of brilliance, emerald cuts offer a sort of hall-of-mirrors depth that feels intentional and expensive.
Because this shape has wide, open facets, the cut must be extremely precise. There’s nowhere for imperfections to hide. This is actually where lab grown diamonds shine because they tend to have fewer natural inclusions.
If you’re the kind of person who appreciates understated luxury, the emerald cut might be calling your name.
Cushion Cuts: Soft Corners, Big Romance
The cushion cut was popular long before Instagram trends kicked in. It’s timeless and has that pillowy, soft-cornered charm that suits both modern and vintage-inspired settings.
Some people say cushions look more “romantic,” whatever that means. I think they mean that the shape feels less rigid, more relaxed.
In lab grown versions, cushion cuts can look exceptionally bright when they’re crafted with the right depth-to-table ratio. So don’t be surprised if a cushion ends up sparkling as fiercely as a round — it does happen.
Princess Cuts: Bold, Sharp, and Still Surprisingly Popular
Princess cuts had a real moment in the early 2000s, and while trends have shifted, this sharp-cornered square shape is still a favourite for people who love symmetry and drama.
The facets on a princess cut create a sort of criss-cross brilliance that’s very different from round cuts. It’s modern. Clean. Slightly rebellious, even.
Lab grown princess cuts are generally excellent at dispersing light, and you often get more size for your budget compared to round brilliants.
Pear, Marquise, and the More Daring Shapes
These “fancy shapes” are for people who don’t mind a bit of individuality. Pears are graceful. Marquise stones look like tiny boats. Both create an elongated effect, and both require precise cutting to avoid uneven light return or wonky symmetry.
I’ve seen some magnificent lab grown pears recently that completely changed my opinion of the shape. When cut properly, they have this soft glow around the edges that’s incredibly flattering.
But buyer beware: symmetry is everything with these shapes. Always compare left and right proportions, and check how the stone looks from multiple angles.
Why Lab Grown Diamonds Are Changing the Discussion About Cuts
You might assume lab grown diamonds are only a budget-friendly or ethical alternative, but honestly, the story is much more interesting.
Because these diamonds are grown with more consistency and purity, cutters can focus on achieving ideal light performance instead of working around unpredictable rough material. This often results in lab stones with:
- Better symmetry
- More precise facet alignment
- Higher brilliance (especially in rounds and cushions)
And if you’re curious about how lab grown diamonds are showing up in global markets, this piece on lab grown diamonds is a surprisingly insightful read.
In short, lab stones have made excellent cutting more accessible, more reliable, and in many cases, more beautiful.
How to Choose the Best Cut (Without Becoming a Gemmologist)
If you’re shopping for a diamond, here are a few real-world tips that genuinely help:
• Always prioritise cut over colour or clarity if sparkle is your goal.
• Look at the stone in natural light, not just bright showroom lighting.
• Compare at least three examples of the same shape.
• Don’t be afraid to ask a jeweller to rotate the diamond slowly — symmetry issues show up instantly when the stone moves.
• Trust your eyes more than the certificate. If you love how it looks, that matters.
Most of all, take your time. Diamonds aren’t like impulse buys at the checkout. You’re choosing something that might be worn for decades.
A Final Thought
Writing about diamonds for years has taught me one thing: no two people see a diamond the same way. What looks breathtaking to one person might look ordinary to someone else.
That’s why the cut matters so much. It frames the way you experience the stone.
A well-cut lab grown diamond isn’t just a sparkly object. It’s a tiny piece of human craftsmanship meeting modern science. It’s something shaped by intention, not accident. And when you find the right cut — the one that makes you pause, maybe smile a little — you’ll know.
So trust your instincts. Learn the basics. And remember that the “best” cut is the one that feels right when you see it catching the light on your hand for the first time.
